Ingredient · Botanical Soothing Agent
Centella Asiatica (Cica)
INCI · Centella Asiatica Extract
Related names and forms: Madecassoside · Asiaticoside · Madecassic Acid. This list does not indicate synonyms or exact ingredient matches.
Centella asiatica (INCI: Centella Asiatica Extract; 'cica') is a whole botanical extract with roots in Asian botanical literature, widely used in cosmetics with a soothing focus. The principal actives associated with its effects are a group of triterpenes: madecassoside, asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid, often collectively referred to as 'madecassosides'. Labels may feature 'cica', 'Centella Asiatica Extract' or an isolated active such as Madecassoside. Because it is a whole extract, its standardisation (triterpene content) and the overall formula matter more than a single 'correct concentration'. As a whole botanical extract, centella has no single INCI-equivalent compound CID in PubChem. Individual actives such as madecassoside and asiaticoside have separate records, but these do not represent the extract itself; the reference framework is provided through evidenceNotes. Klaris assesses centella alongside the presence of standardised actives, the formula's restraint and its other soothing ingredients.
i. Cosmetic Functions
Frequently Discussed Effects
The following headings summarise areas of effect frequently discussed in the literature; visible results in each area require regular use and a suitable formula.
A Soothing Feel
Offers a balancing aspect for sensitive and rosacea-prone profiles.
Barrier Support Signals
Often found in formulas that support the skin's protective structure.
A More Even-Looking Tone
Can be a component of formulas designed to promote a more even-looking tone.
Mechanism
What Happens Within the Skin?
The following points summarise mechanisms from dermocosmetic literature in plain English. Klaris presents them as background information to help readers understand the context, not as medical claims.
Step 1
A Whole Botanical Extract
A whole centella extract containing a group of actives (triterpenes), rather than a single molecule; 'cica' on the label refers to this extract.
Step 2
Madecassosides (Triterpenes)
Madecassoside, asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid are the principal standardised actives associated with its effects.
Step 3
A Soothing Feel
Discussed in relation to a more comfortable appearance for sensitive and rosacea-prone profiles.
Step 4
Barrier Support Context
Often features in formulas that communicate support for the skin's protective structure.
Step 5
Standardisation Matters
As a whole extract, triterpene standardisation and the complete formula matter more than a single dose.
ii. Role in the Formula
How Is It Read on a Label?
Popularised through K-beauty literature, centella has spread into a wide range of formulas. It generally provides a soothing foundation for products intended for sensitive profiles. As an extract, its standardisation and the overall formula matter more than a single 'correct concentration'.
A Closer Look · pH, Stability, Synergy
Centella is a botanical extract popularised through K-beauty literature and now used in a wide range of formulas. Under the name 'cica', it forms part of the soothing foundation of products for sensitive and redness-prone profiles. The most important distinction is between the whole extract and isolated actives: 'Centella Asiatica Extract' describes the whole extract, while some products may separately list individual standardised actives such as madecassoside and asiaticoside. The whole extract's effects depend on standardisation (its triterpene content) and the complete formula; 'contains cica' is therefore not a quality guarantee on its own. Centella is sometimes marketed in a 'repair/wound' context. Klaris interprets this in cosmetics as surface comfort and a soothed appearance, not a treatment claim. Extract-based doses are generally low (0.1%-2%), and it is often formulated alongside other soothing ingredients such as panthenol, allantoin and bisabolol. As with other botanical extracts, sensitivity is occasionally reported; observing a new product on a small area first may be a more measured approach. When assessing a centella product, Klaris considers the presence of standardised actives, the dose, accompanying soothing ingredients and the overall formula together.
Typical Concentration Range
0.1% - 2% (extract-based, dependent on standardisation)
Ingredient Family
Soothing Ingredients
iii. Sensitivity Advisory
A Note on Extra Care in Context
Sensitivity to botanical extracts is occasionally reported. When trying a new centella product for the first time, observing its effect on a small area first may be a more measured approach.
A sensitivity advisory is not an instruction for use; where individual health circumstances, pregnancy or known sensitivities are involved, discussing the decision with your doctor may be a more contextual approach.
Common Misconceptions
Frequently Confused Points
Common Belief
Cica or centella repairs or treats wounds.
A More Contextual Reading
In cosmetics, centella is an extract associated with surface comfort and a soothed appearance, not a treatment or 'wound repair' claim. A clinical condition should be assessed with a specialist.
Common Belief
'Cica' on the label is enough; all cica products have the same effect.
A More Contextual Reading
Centella is a whole extract, and its effects depend on triterpene standardisation and the overall formula. 'Contains cica' alone is not a quality guarantee.
Common Belief
Madecassoside is the same as centella extract.
A More Contextual Reading
Madecassoside is one isolated active component of centella extract. The whole extract contains multiple triterpenes and other components, so the two need to be considered in different contexts.
Common Belief
Because it is natural or botanical, it suits every sensitive skin.
A More Contextual Reading
It is generally described as having a low irritation profile, but 'natural' does not automatically mean suitable. Botanical extracts can occasionally cause sensitivity, and the complete formula matters.
Scientific Basis
Sources and Their Scope
The following headings indicate areas of research; they are not citations of a specific publication or confirmation that every statement on this page has been verified. The links provided should be read with their individual scope in mind.
- International INCI / CosIng database
- Dermocosmetic research publications
- Literature evaluating sensitive profiles
Starting Points for Independent Research
These links lead to official databases and serve as starting points for searches.
iv. Related Ingredients
Ingredients Often Read Together
v. Soothing Ingredients Family
Other Ingredients in the Same Family
Explore ingredients in the same functional family to deepen your reading of formulas.
vi. Academy · Related Reading
For a Closer Look
vii. Related Concern Guides
Guides That Include This Ingredient
Klaris · Example Analyses
How Does Centella Asiatica (Cica) Feature
in Your Products?
Explore product examples to see the ingredient list, general assessment and match score that changes with the example profile together.
Masked products and example profiles, not a personal analysis. Profile matching in the app is part of Klaris Premium. The app is currently available in Turkish. An English version is in preparation.