INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is the shared naming system for ingredients on cosmetic labels. We discuss the general approach to reading INCI lists in a separate article; here, we apply the same reasoning to hair products. We will look at which ingredient families stand out in shampoos, conditioners and masks, and why the same list has a different context for each Hair Identity.
The INCI List: How Is It Ordered?
The general rule is that ingredients are listed in descending order of proportion, with those at the top present in larger amounts. Ingredients below 1% may be listed in any order; fragrance (parfum) and colourants usually appear near the end. In hair products, this order varies by product type:
- In shampoo, the list usually begins with water (Aqua) and cleansing surfactants.
- In conditioners and masks, emollients and humectants tend to be more prominent after water.
- In serums and oils, oils and silicones may appear near the top.
Hair Products: Familiar Ingredient Families
Recognising a few families makes most labels readable:
- Cleansers (surfactants): Sulphates (SLS/SLES) or gentler cleansers, discussed in our article on sulphates.
- Emollients: Fatty alcohols, such as cetearyl alcohol, and plant oils such as argan and shea butter; the difference between fatty alcohols and denatured alcohol is discussed in our article on alcohol.
- Moisture-retaining ingredients (humectants): glycerin and panthenol are examples.
- Proteins: hydrolysed collagen, hydrolysed keratin, hydrolysed silk and hydrolysed rice protein are examples of repairing or film-forming families.
- Silicones: Dimethicone and its derivatives; their role is discussed in our article on silicones.
- Preservatives: Such as phenoxyethanol; why they are needed is discussed in our article on preservatives.
The Same List, a Different Hair Identity
An INCI list is an objective fact, but what it means for you changes with your Hair Identity. Klaris considers hair across four independent axes, oil balance, strand thickness, texture and treatment status, and assesses the same ingredient list in that context:
- For fine strands, heavy silicones and rich oils have a different context in terms of weight; see the article on strand thickness.
- For colour-treated hair, humectants and repairing proteins stand out differently; see the article on colour-treated hair.
- For oily roots, the cleansing profile may matter more; see the scalp article.
Rather than good ingredient or bad ingredient, asking how an ingredient should be understood in your context is therefore a more useful framework.
Three Practical Observations
- Look at the first few ingredients. The beginning of the list shows the ingredients present in the largest proportions and helps you quickly identify the product type, such as a cleanser or moisturiser.
- Recognise families instead of memorising every ingredient. Recognising surfactant, emollient, humectant, protein, silicone and preservative families makes most labels readable.
- Read in your own context. The same list means different things for different Hair Identities; the article on identifying your hair type is a useful starting point.
This article is for information only; it does not provide a medical diagnosis, treatment or a guarantee of safety. If you have sensitivities, are pregnant or have particular circumstances, you are advised to discuss your decisions with your own doctor.