INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, a naming system that defines internationally standardised names for cosmetic ingredients. In many countries, including those in Europe, the United States and Turkey, the same ingredient appears under the same INCI name on cosmetic labels. This means that in two products bought in different countries, Aqua, Glycerin or Tocopherol appears under the same name.
Does the Order Tell You Everything?
Ingredients in an INCI list are generally presented in descending order of concentration. Ingredients at the top account for the largest shares of the formula, with proportions decreasing down the list. That is why it is no surprise to find Aqua and Glycerin at the start of a moisturiser's list: these form the backbone of a moisture-retaining formula.
There is a small qualification to this rule: ingredients at concentrations of 1% or below are no longer subject to a strict order. The order of ingredients in the final third of a list should therefore not be used to compare exact proportions. Preservatives, fragrance and colourants are generally found in this section.
Three Common Ingredient Types
- Building blocks: Aqua (water), Glycerin (glycerin), Cetearyl Alcohol (a fatty alcohol that provides a waxy texture and supports emulsions; it is not the same as drying alcohols). These form the backbone of a formula.
- Active or functional ingredients: Niacinamide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Tocopherol. Added for a particular function in the formula; frequency of use and dose matter.
- Stabilisers and sensory ingredients: Phenoxyethanol, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Parfum. Included for product durability, pH balance and sensory properties such as scent and colour.
Context Always Comes Before an Ingredient
Judging an entire product by one ingredient is often misleading. The same ingredient may be a stabiliser in one formula and an active in another. Concentration, the complete formula and your skin's context determine the result together. A useful assessment asks three questions at once: what does the ingredient do, where is it in the list, and what does it mean for your skin?
Common Misconceptions to Avoid
Here are three of the most common misconceptions:
- A chemical-sounding name means it is harmful. Water's INCI name is also Aqua. A scientific-looking name alone tells you nothing about safety.
- A shorter list is more natural. List length indicates the complexity of a formula, not its quality. Adding a preservative may be necessary for a product to remain safe on the shelf.
- One ingredient makes a product good or bad. The whole formula and your profile determine a product's effect together. An absolute judgement based on one ingredient is misleading.
This article is for information only; it does not provide a medical diagnosis, treatment or a guarantee of safety. If you have sensitivities, are pregnant or have particular circumstances, you are advised to discuss your decisions with your own doctor.